중구기사식당
A hillside-road milmyeon shop open only from April to October, with a sweet onion broth
A milmyeon specialist on the hillside road above Yeongju Tunnel. Despite the name, which means drivers canteen, milmyeon is the only thing it sells, and it opens only from April to October. The climb is steep, so a car or taxi is far easier than walking. The room is small, with a mix of tables and floor seating, and the regulars are mostly older locals.
The broth is what sets it apart: cloudy and thick, served with a thin layer of ice like sorbet. Pork stock carries a gentle sweetness from onion, which is unlike the usual Busan milmyeon broth. The sweetness divides opinion, but the savoury depth behind it is what keeps people coming back. The seasoning paste is packed with chopped onion too.
The noodles look thick like jjolmyeon but are soft enough to bite through cleanly. Garnishes are boiled pork, egg and cucumber, and the only side dish is radish kimchi. The menu is just cold milmyeon and spicy mixed milmyeon, with a large portion option. Opinion splits over which is better, so two people are best off ordering one of each and sharing.
Seating is limited and a queue forms at lunch, though the turnover is fast. Open 11:00-17:00, closed Sundays and Mondays. Again: the shop trades only from April to October, so a winter visit is a wasted trip. There is no car park, so use nearby paid parking or the roadside.