마담마담
Pretzel brunch cafe on the slope up to Yongdusan Park
A pretzel and brunch cafe halfway up the slope towards Yongdusan Park. Turn off Gwangbok-ro into the alley and climb a short flight of steps; it sits on the incline and is easy to walk past on a first visit. Bosu-dong Book Street, Gukje Market and Nampo-dong are all within walking distance, as are Tonshou Nampo and the original Ijaemo Pizza, so people often use it to pass the time while waiting for those queues.
Pretzels are made in house, and the original (KRW 4,000) comes out of the oven fresh at noon; the smell hits as soon as you open the door. For a proper meal, go for a pretzel sandwich. The smoked salmon one is generous, served with rocket, cheese, sauce and carrot rapee on the side, and the spring onion and bacon version (KRW 8,000) balances a restrained onion cream against salty bacon. There is also a jambon pretzel bagel and a pepperoni pretzel (KRW 5,500).
For a fuller spread there is the brunch plate (KRW 17,000): mini pretzels with bacon, cocktail sausages, salad and carrot rapee. The salad pasta (KRW 14,000) is a fresh one, with tomato marinade, olive oil, rocket and basil. Desserts run to honey basque cheesecake at KRW 9,000, vanilla basque cheesecake at KRW 8,500 and real strawberry gelato at KRW 6,500, with butter tteok at weekends. Drinks start around KRW 5,500 for an iced americano.
It looks small from outside but uses both floors. The second floor is the roomier one and has walled-off nooks that work well for a group, while the window seats catch the sun and look over the city - though the stairs up are steep. There are toilets on both floors, all unisex. You order by QR code at the table and the food is brought to you. Dogs are welcome. There are a lot of overseas visitors, and it can be full even on a rainy weekday.