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Pohang Hoegwan

포항회관

Yeonje Korean sashimi

About

A Pohang-style mulhoe specialist within walking distance of Yeonsan Station. Instead of the iced broth version, this is the Pohang build with no liquid at all, mixed straight into the sauce, and despite the name it is counted among the best mulhoe in Busan. Families and older regulars fill the first and second floors.

There are four options, all with rice included: mixed fish mulhoe in regular or premium, ray mulhoe, a combination of the two at KRW 17,000, and squid mulhoe at KRW 20,000. Thick slices of fish come piled with cucumber, spring onion, pear and seaweed flakes for a very green plate, which is worth noting if cucumber is a problem. The sauce is not hot, closer to the cool dressing on bibim naengmyeon, but there is enough of it to read salty, so stir rice in partway through or wrap it.

The trick here is the generous perilla and lettuce that come with it. Mix the mulhoe well, take a mouthful with pear, cucumber and fish, or wrap it, and finish by stirring in the rice. Side dishes are chili, garlic, ssamjang, braised black beans and stir-fried anchovies, with a bracing bean sprout soup.

Hours are 11:30 to 21:00, with a break from 15:00 to 16:00, last order at 20:20, and closed Sunday. Everything is made to order, so a busy day can mean thirty minutes to an hour, with a numbered ticket while you wait. Takeaway and groups are both handled. There is no parking support, so use a private car park nearby; the racecourse lot runs KRW 1,500 per half hour.